Hi everybody,
My plan is up for renewal with Orcon.
Knowing the points below, what is the best and cheapest plan for me and my family, looking to save some dollars ($):
What is the deals out there these days?
I am looking for the same thing once my 6 months is used up, I imagine a lot of other people are in the same boat. Needs to be cheaper enough than skinny to cover the cancellation cost.
check if your neighbors wifi reaches you. give neighbor an extra few bucks a month to upgrade to gigabit and some to cover his monthly costs.
if signal is not that strong, buy a range extender.
I ain't sharing my wifi with Covid19
This works particularly well for units, apartments, and subdivided houses. Rather than an extender, upgrade to mesh since an extender will cut the bandwidth in half. If your neighbour isn't very close to you it's probably not worth it as the speed will be too slow.
Better yet sign up with Vodafone on a 12 month contract and get the mesh units for free:
https://www.vodafone.co.nz/broadband/superwifi/
NOTE: It is really 2 x 12 month contracts in order not to get charged for the units. The price is discounted off your account over 24 months.
sorry I am asking something not really relating to the topic, when switching provider, is it better always to get their own modem, for example, when I switch from Spark to Slingshot, I don't know how to make my Spark modem working on Slingshot network ( have tried, but fail to connect, lucky it's free rental, only pays shipping 14.95), so ending up using Slingshot own modem…. is there anywhere can provide the friendly guide to follow when changing provider but not using their own modem ?
thank you
Providers such as Spark/Slingshot typically have help guides (on their website) showing how to connect other modems to their service. This generally involves changing a setting or two on the modem settings page (IP address). What modem do you have?
Geekzone is also a good place to find relevant information on this topic.
Thank you Wakrak, I have 2 Spark modem, 1 is black colour HB630, 1 is white colour HB659, non of that would auto connect to Slingshot network.. and I just checked on the post in Geekzoom, looks like Slingshor/Orcon,Vocus network is different to Spark, there are few postings there in relation to Spark modem not working for slingshot/orcon network.
I generally suggest one of two things:
1) Use the modem / router provided by your ISP, but have your own router inside of that. That way, any issues, they are dealing with their piece of kit and will absolutely support you, but they have no way to penetrate your own router so you are pretty much sure to be secure. This does require a (small) amount of technical chops I guess.
2) Get going with the modem / router provided by your ISP, then remove it and replace with your own. Get that working too, and leave it in place, but if you have problems, and need to call their helpdesk, you can always put their kit back in so that they will definitely support.
Most of the time, the people on the helpdesk will try to assist no matter what, but they can't reasonably be familiar with every piece of kit out there.
Alan.
What concerns do you have about your broadband company "penetrating" your network? How would this be a vulnerability? Don't isp's already have access to the URL of websites you visit, or is that only if you use their DNS, I can't remember.
I don't have any specific concerns - it is just not good practice to allow anyone else access to your network and the devices therein.
If you just use the ISPs kit, someone there may be able to create a connection to that kit, and then on to your LAN. If you have your own modem / router inside of theirs, then they can do anything they like to the outer device, but they are no more inside your network than anyone else.
Also, if you just use their modem / router to connect to the ISP, any configuration you create specific to your requirements is not on that device, but on your own kit. If they decide to update / wipe / reset to factory settings (maybe as part of solving a problem) you don't lose anything much. Whilst you can backup config, it might not be a good idea to have them solve a problem, then restore a config that might have something in it that was causing or contributing to the issue.
In terms of what they can see of your traffic - if we assume you aren't using a VPN (say), they can see what remote endpoints you are connecting to. If your communication with a given endpoint is properly encrypted (often HTTPS for example, but more generally any properly encrypted protocol) then they should not be able to see the content.
Alan.
@Alan6984: Makes sense, you're protecting your network from someone within the company that has internal access, has never been a concern for me.
I knew they can see the URL/endpoints that you access on the network with https, and on http they can see the content since it isn't encrypted, back when there were all those articles urging people not to go on http sites on an unsecured network like a coffee shop because the person sitting next to you could be stealing your banking information
@Bill: I doubt that your bank was ever using non-HTTPS for customer logins (at least I hope not!) but many other sites did (FaceBook is a good example - or rather the ongoing bad example!) That was one reason I quit FaceBook in about 2009 - they were / are just not interested in privacy at all.
Personally, I would not do much on an unknown WiFi network myself. If I was needing to use one, I would likely just VPN back to my own network first, and then go out to wherever I wanted to get to, but I would also have a preference to have some kind of NAT device between me and that WiFi network. A proper firewall is always going to be better, and you should certainly have a software firewall running on your devices, but any router that is doing NAT should reject any unsolicited incoming packets by default, so pretty good protection right there. There are loads of portable routers that will do this if you need to use WiFi / LANs that you don't know anything about regularly.
Alan.
@Alan6984: Bank may not have been using HTTPS but without HSTS or some other mechanism in place (like customer vigilance) it was generally easy enough for a mildly competent attacker to compromise your connection by downgrading you to HTTP. Note that although normally referred to as a downgrade attack this can generally be client side only, the MITM can still connect over HTTPS. In other words, the bank doesn't generally have to support HTTP logins or connections at all for this to work. It just has to be the case that the client (and I'm including the human here) is willing to connect over HTTP.
IIRC most browsers of the time did warn you when submitting login credentials over an insecure website if you didn't disable it, so hopefully most would have realised something was up if they suddenly got that for banking but didn't normally. Still it was common enough for sites in general that some would have disabled it and others would have just ignored it. Although 2FA was already fairly universal for banking at least in NZ by then from what I remembered and AFAIK, so would often significantly limit damage unless the attacker was sophisticated enough to attack in real time. A bigger risk was probably debit/credit card details and maybe sites like PayPal etc.
Of course if the website does only allow HTTP even for logins then you're basically SoL even with vigilance so you really trust every element between you and the site not to MITM
@Nil Einne: Well, if your bank was not using HTTPS, then you really should have just gone to a different bank, but I guess few people, even now, really understand what the risk is.
Pretty sure 2FA wasn't at all normal for personal accounts until much later, but commercial accounts, or maybe any accounts under the 'business' banner, required a hardware token by the early to mid 2000s in NZ, but many MITM attacks even then were entirely real-time, and 2FA / MFA won't protect you if you are just passing the tokens on via a MITM.
Not sure about debit cards, but even in the eighties credit cards in many countries offered full protection (or with a small initial risk of maybe $50 / $100 or equivalent - subject to you not being complicit of course). I still never use a debit card online, and hardly ever in person - credit cards are so much safer, and virtual credit cards even more so, but they have only been around for about fifteen years I think (might have been Chase that were one of the earlier ones to offer those, but my memory fails me there - sometime around 2007 or a little earlier maybe? In fact, I seem to remember PayPal offering a virtual credit card around the same time too, or maybe I am mis-remembering that too?)
Skinny 4 months free.
Is the Skinny Smart Modem any good? Am looking at this deal now.
I have mine here in the box, but not going to use it, just keeping it as a spare. I'll get the model number for you if you want to see what you can find about it.
Have got the skinny 6 months free deal and using their modem. So far its been very reliable, 500mb down 350 up on a wireless laptop.
Does anyone else who signed up to Skinny 6 months free still get the message below when logging into broadbandunlimited?
Welcome to Skinny Unlimited Broadband - we're glad you could join us
It looks like we haven't got your connection up and running just yet. We are doing our best to get you connected and when we have we'll send you an email.
Customer details - $ to pay - card details - welcome message
I contacted them about it and they fixed it for me.
I’m hoping they forget about me and I get free internet. 3 months to go.
I think it's a prevalent problem, also they seem to start your plan on the connection date. They send an email "Your Skinny connection is complete, and we've set up your billing"
Nice one. We can now see an active connection from your place to Skinny Unlimited Broadband.
Now that your connection is confirmed, we've set up your Skinny billing using the card details that you provided when you joined us. From now on we'll bill you $98.00 (first 6 months free) on the 29th of every month.
If you didn't get sent this then they might not see an active connection
Through my calculations, I think if you bought the skinny 6 months free it might be best to just stay the entire 12 months and not change. The cancellation fee for after 6 months is $99, so in order for it to be cheaper to move, your new provider has to be at least $17 cheaper per month. hotshot has fibre ultra for $80 which is the cheapest and that's a $1 saving per month if you were to cancel. There is no fibre for $61 so it wouldn't make sense to switch from the 300/100 plan to another fibre plan.
I will just be switching from the 900 plan to the 300 plan on skinny and staying.
Why downgrading from 900 to 300? What has the skinny smart modem been like?
I don't need the extra bandwidth, was previously on 100 so downgrading to 300 is still going to be far better. The modem's config page is very good but I feel like the range might be worse although when I tested it was the same.
I see Slingshot has a 300/100 Mbps - unlimited - $62.95 a month for first 12 months deal going on through broadbandcompare
That seems to be a good price but still over $100 more expensive than skinny's current 4 months free offer. Not even mentioning that skinny lets you keep the router where as this is a rental. Slightly better priced than stuff fibre's 6 months free though. Skinny should be focusing on some retention incentive, I would stay with them if they would give me the 4 months free and they wouldn't even have to send me a new router. Letting all the people that joined for 1 year leave would be a terrible idea. Now all the promotions are targeted at new signups, cheap the first year then screw you the next, considering they wouldn't need to send a new router you would expect the price to get better the second year.
My StuffFibre term finishes in May, and I'm moving house soon anyway, so looking at options. Using broadbandcompare NZ shows that rental router is free for most ISPs but when going direct to the ISP website there is a monthly rental charge. Is it better to order via broadbandcompare for this as well?
I would say go via either BroadBandCompare, or via a referral from the system on this site unless you can see any downside?
Thanks Alan. Now looking at Skinnys 4 month deal which seems to be the same either broadbandcompare and direct.
@L3tstaxth1s: If they are the same, and there is a referral mechanism on here, you may as well use the referral and pass on something to another Cheapie.
Might even be me, although I'm not with Skinny Fibre myself (but don't let that put you off!)
My StuffFibre term finishes in May, and I'm moving house soon anyway, so looking at options. Using broadbandcompare NZ shows that rental router is free for most ISPs but when going direct to the ISP website there is a monthly rental charge. Is it better to order via broadbandcompare? Don't recall if I went direct last time or not… Cheers
Skinny sends router anyway for additional $10, there's no opting out of it. Just saying.
I have renewed my vodafone contract in Jan (naked boardband 300 Mbps average download speed) for $56.32 per month for a 12 year contract. (via the retention team).
That is very good.
Update - I have just sign with Vodafone the Fibre max plan (900/500) for $78.99 open term plan. I was very close to signing up with Skinny for $72 per/month for the same speed, but the only downside, is THEY WON'T LET YOU USE YOUR ROUTER/MODEM. I have my own router/modem which has very high wireless strength. The ones that are free or given from the internet company are useless when it comes to signal strength.
Thank you, looks like the CSR from Skinny told an untrue statement in relation to modem. Vodafone and Skinny internet speed much difference, I come to believed in my own head, that ALL internet providers are the same speed, because the internet line that goes into your router is still the same, they are just renting the line off chorus?
Hi @Covid19
I was very close to signing up with Skinny for $72 per/month for the same speed, but the only downside, is THEY WON'T LET YOU USE YOUR ROUTER/MODEM. I have my own router/modem which has very high wireless strength. The ones that are free or given from the internet company are useless when it comes to signal strength.
You can easily use their modem / router to connect to the ISP, and then plug your own into theirs - if you are mainly using WiFi, then the wired connection between the two will be far faster than your WiFi, so you won't have any speed issues that you wouldn't have otherwise had.
In fact, that is a good idea from a security perspective too, and if they ever want to wipe their kit, it doesn't affect your setup.
I always do it that way.
Alan.
Rookie question- how do you connect skinny modem to your modem and any associated settings with it? Thanks.
@CoolTiger: In general you would just connect the two using an ethernet cable - I normally site the two devices next to each other and use a patch (short) ethernet cable of less than 50cm (just to keep things tidy) but if you only have, say, 2m ethernet cables lying around, then use whatever you have.
Assuming your Skinny router / modem is working fine (if not, then you need to resolve that with Skinny first), then when you connect your router to theirs, there is a fair chance that it will 'just work', but if not, you'll need to login to your router, find the place where 'internet connection' settings (might be called 'WAN settings' or something else), and probably change it to something like 'LAN Connection'.
Unfortunately, there is little consistency in the terms that different routers use, so hard to be specific.
If that works, then your router will hopefully get an IP from Skinny's router, and you can then plug your devices into your router (or connect via your router's WiFi) and all will be good.
Once you have that working, you could then:
Unconditionally forward all ports from the Skinny Router to your router (maybe put your router in Skinny router's DMZ if it has that option)
Configure port forwarding, security, and any other settings as required in your router
Backup your router's config!
Does that help?
Alan.
@Alan6984: Do you mean connect from a lan into the wan? Then you'll be caped at the max output of the port.
@Bill: Sure, but almost all routers are gigabit across all ports these days - I haven't seen one for some years that wasn't.
Could be an issue if you are using an old router from years ago, or some cheapo router that is newer, I guess.
I have an old Slingshot router from about 2015 / 2016 which I use occasionally for testing which I'm pretty sure (might be wrong though!) is gigabit on all ports as an example, and I'm pretty sure I have a Fritz!Box 7360 which might be about 2011 (again, not sure) which does only do 100MBit on its LAN ports I think. I should probably toss that one, as I can't imagine why I would use it, rather than the Slingshot router or the EdgeRouter-X I have lying around… somewhere… buried :-) The ER-X is a superb piece of kit still (pretty certain that is gigabit on all ports), even though that must be some years old now.
Do you have a device that is only able to do 100Mbit?
@Alan6984: No, I'm sure all the fibre routers I've used are gigabyte, it just seems like bad practice for what is essentially plugging a power board into a power board. By doing so, you essentially double your ethernet ports, right? I'm currently maxed out on all my ports but if I needed another ethernet connection it could act as an ethernet splitter.
Also, since you are using the skinny router as a bridge, once setup, you would want to turn off the wifi from the device to reduce the interference right?
it just seems like bad practice for what is essentially plugging a power board into a power board.
The extra device will have to have some impact, but for most practical use cases, it is not likely to be noticeable.
I am not an online shoot-em-up gamer, but perhaps for someone that is, then the extra device would add enough lag to be an issue. It seems to be a bit of a teenage obsession to get the fastest 'ping' / lowest latency connection, but I've never bothered with that myself.
The analogy of plugging a power-board into a power-board may not be very helpful - passing packets through multiple devices won't create any kind of safety issue due to 'overloading' per se (in the way that you could overload a mains circuit if you plug too many devices, that draw too much current in total, into a single outlet via multiple boards) - consider that many offices (especially larger ones) will likely have connections going through multiple switches and routers before getting to the wider internet, and then the packets might go through a good number of devices on the net before getting to the destination.
I have been involved in a number of office moves, and often involved in shifting the IT in and out. I have seen some amazing setups with connections going through switch after switch after switch, each of which was added ad-hoc when there was no visible or easily accessible un-used ethernet port, especially in older buildings where there is no ethernet in the walls or ceilings and no ports on the walls :-)
By doing so, you essentially double your ethernet ports, right? I'm currently maxed out on all my ports but if I needed another ethernet connection it could act as an ethernet splitter.
You do increase your ethernet ports, but that only counts if you are using the ones in the outer (Skinny) router - I would not do that since it negates the purpose of what I am doing.
If you need more ethernet ports, you could just buy a switch (which is, what I believe you are referring to as an 'ethernet splitter') - I have in the past sold second hand, but perfectly functional 24 and 48 port switches on TradeMe for, say, $30 to $50, so it wouldn't cost much, and in general they are solid-state (maybe with a fan) and last 'forever-ish'. However, most people at home are connecting most devices by WiFi so additional ethernet ports aren't even a factor for them anyway.
Also, since you are using the skinny router as a bridge, once setup, you would want to turn off the wifi from the device to reduce the interference right?
Turning off the WiFi in the outer (Skinny) router is probably a good idea (I do that myself), but if it is operating on a completely non-overlapping channel from your own router's WiFi, then it won't interfere anyway. If you aren't using both 2.4 and 5GHz you could also set one router to 2.4 and the other to 5, but my own router does both, and I don't want to have anyone ever connecting directly to the outer (Skinny) router, so for most situations I would turn WiFi off there.
@Alan6984: Hey mate, how did you turn off skinny wifi? I can't see that in the setup option. Also I have Asus mesh ( Asus router connect to skinny router through LAN) and not able to get 5ghz through that unfortunately. 2.4 GHz works fine. Is this because of wifi clash on 5 GHz between skinny and asus? Thanks.
@CoolTiger: Hi CoolTiger,
I don't have a Skinny connection myself. What I meant is that I turn off the WiFi in whatever router is in the 'outer' position in the setup I described.
That does imply that I could find such a setting to turn it off, but perhaps that does not exist in the firmware that Skinny have applied to your hardware router. If not, or if you can't find it, maybe contact Skinny to ask them if you can disable it.
Regarding your second question:
It is definitely possible that your two routers (Skinny and Asus), both broadcasting a WiFi signal on 5GHz will interfere with each other.
If you can access and change the channel in use by each (or even just one) of the routers, you should separate them so that they do not overlap at all. For example (and off the top of my head without checking!) I believe that the lowest 5GHz band is something like 36 and the highest is 128. If you used those two extremes, they would not interfere with each other. HOWEVER, if you have close neighbours, and they use the same band as you, then your router and theirs will interfere with each other.
The best option is probably to use a WiFi analyser on, say, a SmartPhone to see what signals is gets in various places around your home, and choose two, non-overlapping channels, that also don't overlap with your neighbours. If you live in a rural property, miles from anyone else, that will be trivial. If you live in an apartment, might be more tricky or even impossible, but there will still be good and bad channel options regardless.
Android phones definitely let you run that kind of analysis, not sure if Apple will give you permission to do that or not.
You can also run that kind of analyser on a laptop or any computer with a WiFi connections (at least Windows or Linux - again not sure what Apple might allow or not allow you to do).
Whether such interference is the actual cause of your issue, I cannot know, but it is at least possible.
Hope that helps,
Alan.
how did you approach this conversation with them? I'm currently on an open contract with vodafone for $75/month on a 300 plan.
Would be happy to jump on a 12-month contract for that deal!
Ask to put you through to the retention team first and ask for a 12 month contract and say your friend was offered $200 credit for the 12 month contract and you are planning to leave if you are not offered the same deal. Please report back see how you went. Cheers.
With Skinny - does anyone know if (while on the 12 month contract) you can change plan speeds up and down. I presume they will be ok with up, but what about down. The full speed and the lower speed both have 4 months free - so it shouldn't really make a difference - anyone tried it ?
Reason I ask is planning on travelling overseas for 3 months later in the year - so fine to keep it going (for cameras etc) but dont really need max speed if noone is really here.
yea you can change.
Won't you have to sign up for 12 months contract for that?
What do you mean? You can change speeds during the 12 months.
Thanks. I also noticed in the email they sent me after I signed up . You get 4 months free - if you cancel you pay $199 after 6 months (or which 4 months was free anyway) and then the fee drops to $99 in the following 6 months and the deal is open to people who have not been customers for the last 90 days. Surely that means if someone else comes up with a similar deal, after paying 2 months you could swap again, take the $99 fee and then get another 4 months free. Rinse and repeat.
Yeah, would be nice if skinny just rewarded people for staying rather than only new signups so people aren't looking to leave asap.
Does anyone know — with Skinny or Slingshot, can you specify a future start date? Has anyone got a good deal for Sky Broadband? Thanks.
I did (with Skinny) when the 6 months deal was available. Up to 2 months in advance according to comments over at Geekzone
Unsure about Slingshot.
I believe, but cannot prove, that there is a maximum future date that you can choose, which is around the one to two month mark.
I have asked for specific dates in the past, and gotten them, but not always (sometimes had to come closer to the date of asking).
It might be, for example, no further than the 28th of the next month (I am just making that up as an example), which, on 1 Apr 2022 would be 28 May 2022 (58 days or so), but on 30 Apr 2022 might still be 28 May 2022 (28 days or so).
I would speculate it might have to do with some kind or interactions that have to happen between the old ISP and the new one, and / or Chorus (or whoever owns the local physical infrastructure). It might also relate to the specific ISP's systems in some way.
Maybe someone that works for an ISP can provide a more definitive answer.
Alan.
Sky broadband actually looks pretty reasonable for $69 a month for the 300/100 plan including router and 12 months of Disney Plus. That's just straight off the sky broadband website.
Of course this is conditional on having at least a Sky Box already (otherwise it's $10 more) and that you would get some benefit from Disney Plus.
I haven't tried it myself but was looking at it for my parents who do have a Sky decoder and they liked the idea of having Disney Plus for when the grandkids come over.
Slingshot does it to. I have done that twice with Slingshot as have been jumping between orcon, slingshot & stuff-fibre. I believe max is around 1-2 months, haven't tried beyond that.
Skinny is still cheaper if you do the 4 months free but Slingshot is getting close…
Sign up to Slingshot's 300Mbps Unlimited Fibre plan and pay ONLY $57.95/month for the first 12 months!
Skinny = $624 /year
Slingshot = $695.4 /year
https://www.broadbandcompare.co.nz/p/slingshot-exclusive-off…
I calculated not too long ago that you can do 6 months of skinny, cancel, join hotshot for 3 months, and go back to skinny for the 4 months free again. Worked out to $51.77 I believe, my notes from that day are too messy can't tell what is what. Thinking about it was harder than one might expect, the calculations weren't that simple as you had to make sure you were including the right amount of months.
Any of these ISPs better or worse for getting either a static IP or at least not CGNAT?
My understanding is that Skinny no longer force you onto a CGNAT address, so you should be able to get incoming connections (unless they block such entirely, or maybe some port range).
I don't know if they are now able to offer a fixed IP though.
Perhaps someone who is on Skinny can confirm if Skinny allow incoming connections, and if so, do they have the option for a fixed IP?
Alan.
Has anybody downgraded their speed to 300 after the first 6 months free?
It's nearly 6 months since I joined Skinny and I wasn't sure how early I have to let them know in advance
For those of you that switch providers regularly, is it fairly straight forward? i.e. Try to have the start date with new provider overlap final day of current one. Then once new provider confirms the connection is active, I update my router settings and away we go? Is that the gist of it? How long typically is the changeover? Cheers
I have never had any issue personally, except with a VOIP connection when I first moved to Slingshot around 2015 / 2016.
It might have been our first fibre (rather than VDSL) connection actually.
Bit of an edge case, and probably far less common in those days, but their support desk recognised I knew what I was talking about, and moved me through to second or third level support (can't remember) almost immediately, at which point I was talking to someone who knew far more than me (always a good sign!) We were on the phone for about ninety minutes before he worked out the settings I needed to get it to work with their modem / router. Brilliant support for sticking with me in my opinion, and I learnt stack-loads that day!
As soon as everything was working, I immediately did a backup of the configuration, and also went through every single page in the device's setup, and too a screen-shot - I had no desire to have to work that out again, but it was never a problem again.
In general, I always let the new ISP handle the changeover, including notifying the old ISP - it has always seemed far safer to me to do it that way, and I don't recall having any downtime between ISPs at least since moving to fibre back then. Pretty sure it was the same on DSL / ADSL / VDSL. Dial-up was arguably easier as you got a new account, and used their dial-up 0800 number instead of the old one, so you had complete control :-) Then again, we all used to have multiple dial-up accounts that were completely free in the late-nineties (something to do with inter-connection revenue and the terminating network got paid by your teleco - look it up if interested).
Nowadays, usually, the new ISP will send you their modem / router, which I always use (see my previous posts on this subject), and I don't do anything with the old modem / router at that point (you never know!) Often the old ISP won't even ask you to send it back, but if they do, then wipe it to factory settings, and return it in the courier bag they send you (or whatever they require).
The actual changeover should be essentially instantaneous, but maybe others have a different experience.
Does anyone have experience with 4G Wireless broadband? We live rural so cannot get fibre and our internet at the moment is frustratingly slow and constantly cuts out. Have been looking at 4G Wireless as an option, and there is an unlimited plan from Skinny which is a lot cheaper (nearly half the cost) than our current VDSL connection. According to their website Wireless is supposed to be slower than VDSL (29Mbps vs 44Mbps but we actually only get ~30Mbps) but my neighbour who switched to Wireless says its faster.
You could always get a Skinny Prepaid SIM (few dollars I think), load it up with a small credit, and then use it hotspot to a laptop, and see what speed you get - wouldn't cost much, and if its no good, you know for certain.
I can't see why that would be any different than a modem / router with a 4G SIM in it supplied by Skinny, but maybe someone else who has one can chip in and let us know why it might be.
I would also try to pin Skinny down as to a minimum (not maximum!) sustained speed that you will get, and ask whether, if you don't get that, they will refund all your outlay within the first 30 days or whatever seems reasonable. If doing that, make sure it is written down (email or whatever) - verbal conversations don't count from a practical perspective (unless you record them I guess).
Best to ask your neighbours
As we don't live where you do
I guess I'm just skeptical of our neighbours experience because sometimes we don't even get great signal in our house. Maybe they are low users where we often have multiple devices connected. Thanks for the advice Alan, Skinny actually has a 30 day guarantee so I might as well give it a shot.
Yes - asking your neighbours is pretty much pointless, especially if you live somewhere that they are not literally a few metres away, as signals can be very different even in locations that are quite close together, and even in the same house sometimes.
Didn't know about the 30 day guarantee, but it makes sense for a service that could be extremely variable by location.
If they are offering a full refund (or just don't charge you until after 30 days) including any kit they send, then I see no downside to giving it a go, and one benefit of a 4G service is that you don't have to cancel anything else you have in place already while you try it out.
Is anyone currently with MyRepublic for broadband and would like to share their referrer code / Customer ID?
Turn your PM on
Good to go.
Anything wrong with getting one from the referral system on cheapies?
I am uncertain only on whether the referral links are up to date as all the past promotional listings with MyRepublic have expired.
Oh, ok. Does it not tell you where you enter it if it's good or not?
Any updated deals out there?
Have a look at Broadband Compare to begin with.
Spark deal atm looks ok with the 200 voucher and netflix included.
How so? Link? 200 voucher can give you 2 months free.
Makes sense. I assumed it was fibre as the post was about it.
My deal is not available anymore, but I'm with MyRepublic paying about $69 a month without fixed terms. I get 300 Mbps down and 100 Mbps up (standard) and it's stable and very consistent for me (I run regular speedtests every now and then and there's no jitter and I average about 315 Mbps down and 105 Mbps up, across my entire network). I also get a static IP for free as well.
Good places to start before others chip in. I jumped on Skinny 6 months free when it was available. Great deal. What companies have you compared so far?
https://www.cheapies.nz/node/27387
https://www.cheapies.nz/node/26419
https://www.cheapies.nz/node/28488
https://www.broadbandcompare.co.nz/