Ford Mustang Mach-e RWD $45,000 (RRP $74,990), GT: $65,000 (RRP $116,990) @ Ford Dealers

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Ford dealers have quietly been offering steep discounts of the Mustang Mach-e.

RWD launched at $79,990, and the RRP was dropped to $74,990 at the start of the year, reportedly selling at $45k
AWD launched at $109,990, and the RRP was dropped to $87,600 at the start of the year, reportedly selling at $55k [This trim may be sold out]
GT launched at $124,990, and the RRP was dropped to $116,990 at the start of the year, reportedly selling at $65k

As long as you are not a purist, and can get over the word "mustang" in the name of a electric SUV, this is a heap of car for the money. The 198 kW RWD fairly large 5 seat SUV is selling for roughly the same price as a top spec corolla hybrid (103kW FWD). And the 358 kW GT, selling for less than a base Highlander hybrid (184kW).

There also are some ex demo RWD's on trade me for $40k.

Had a RWD as a rental. Really nice car. Feels extremely planted on the road, and the management of road noise is excellent (better than my lexus RX, which is a really good acoustically). Range was a little disappointing. About 300km in the real world at ~104 km/h gps true with three adults in the car. Still plenty for many peoples needs.

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Comments

  • +2

    This is a really good car. Such a good deal.

  • +1

    But spare a thought for the people who bought them at full price 🤕

    • I don't see many on the road, so no great loss for alot of folks.

    • Don't think anyone bought them at RRP remembering seeing it last year base model being marketed for $50k.

  • yeah we all know Ford make great handling cars but…. Fix Or Repair Daily!

    • General consensus semes to be that other than the High Voltage Battery Junction Box issue impacting cars built from May 27, 2020 to May 24, 2022 (I don't think an NZ Mach-e's are that old), that the Mach-e is decently reliable.

      No Powershift transmission here…

      • Yes it's still a new model, but just wait a few more months for the gremlins to come out.

        • Its been in production for ~4 years now. (but has been in NZ a shorter amount of time)

  • +3

    Probably not surprising that some EVs are dropping so much in price, esp older models. The tech is constantly improving and the running cost advantages of an EV have been eroded in NZ

    • The combination of global economic factors, and local policy changes means that EV sales have plummeted in NZ. This means that importers ordered far more EV's than the market is currently demanding, and they have the hard choice between keeping excessive (and aging) stock on hand, and dropping their pants on pricing to clear the stock.

  • Any referral offers?

    • Or free postage?

      • or BOGOF like those Italian EVs when they exited the local market

        • Try WELCOME5

  • What model year are these vehicles? Does the RWD come with the LFP battery?

    • +3

      I did a little Google Fu.

      "Ford notes that if the eighth digit in a vehicle's VIN is a 4 or 5, it indicates that the vehicle is indeed equipped with an LFP battery"

      Only the Later Standard range (RWD) builds get LFP, everything else is NCM.

      Seems to a mix (but mostly NCM) on the NZ market at the moment, so you might be able to get your pick.

      Here is a car that (based on the VIN) is NCM:

      https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=QUN634

      And here is one that (based on both the vin and the dealer advert) is a LFP:

      https://www.capitalcityford.co.nz/vehicles/stock/21173/1007/…

      • From the evdb website there are 368 nmc rwd's registered and 73 lfp (nmc they show up as 75kwh and lfp 78kwh)
        https://evdb.nz/v/ford-mustang-mach-e
        There were some lfp battery rwd sold on the 'test drive' program, my dealer told me they are all sold now making the 40k December 2023 reg demo's on trademe the best current offer.

        • +1

          Good spotting on the different battery size. I wasn't aware the LFP cars also had a slightly bigger pack. Sure is easier to check the back size than to decode the VIN.

          Those nz evdb stats highlight another point for AWD car buyers. Maker sure it is the 98 kWh version not the 75 kWh version (if registered it will appear on the license card displayed on the windscreen).

          • +1

            @scott: The even easier way to spot the LFP cars is they have 19 inch wheels with covers and the NMC have 18 inch alloys. You can see the difference in the two cars you posted above. The smaller battery cars AWD were early press cars. They are a little better spec than the RWD with nicer alloys, electric seats, power tailgate etc and are being sold at RWD prices, I nearly purchased one but went for the LFP battery and 'new'

  • +6

    I probably would have been genuinely interested a year ago.

    I loved EVs (and my wife still has one), but RUCs on her 1050KG Smart Car being the same as a 3.5 tonne diesel killed them for me. RUCs create a price floor, and setting the RUCs so high that EVs cost more to run than a full hybrid is a deal breaker.

    I'm now only interested in full hybrids (which I have now gone out and purchased).

    EVs are now by far the highest tax to fuel ratio vehicle class.

    • +7

      Yep, we get more American every day. Everyone needing a Ford ranger nowadays, or even a RAM, to drop the kids at school and squeeze into supermarket car parks that are apparently getting smaller…

    • Interesting…. you are talking about cost - what about cost to run 1000km?

      Would EV cost less to run 1000km than a hybrid when you consider tax+electricity+petrol?

      • +7

        If you consider saying a Toyota Aqua, a 36 litre tank would cost $90 to fill (2.50 per litre), and estimate range I've seen anywhere from 750 to 1000km. An electric car has to pay $76 for RUC alone for 1000km, then whatever it cost in electricity to run it for 1000km on top. Aqua might be an extreme example as it is a small very efficient hybrid, however other bigger hybrids aren't always too much more in consumption.

        • +1

          This was an interesting post to read. I've not done the maths on EVs for a while and I wouldn't have thought it was that close even with RUCs, but here we are.

          • +2

            @ABCDEFG: EV's paying 2.4x of the road tax of a Yaris hybrid sure has a decent impact.

            That said, it's likely not a huge deal for this car. A Mach e Buyer is more likely to be cross shopping with something powerful (6 cylinder subaru outback?), that would use petrol at a rate much closer to the 9.5L/100km break even point than a yaris hybrid.

        • +7

          Comparing something nice to drive with a toyota aqua is not a fair comparison tho.

          That is like comparing a moderate resturant to going with the supermarket and getting a loaf of $1.30 bread and some rank salad from the deli and calling it a meal.

          • +2

            @richms: Yeah that's why I mentioned aqua is a more extreme example if comparing to a bigger car (it's just I had some knowledge about the aqua so used that). However the fuel consumption of some bigger hybrids these days are not much more than smaller hybrids as @danvelopment pointed out in his calculations with a Toyota crown it comes out pretty similar to the Mach-e for example.

        • +1

          The Toyota Camry Hybrid is rated at 1,100 Kms for a 50 ltr tank. lots of power with a 2.5 ltr engine, and really comfortable to drive

          Real world probably 900 or so, but that is still 18 km/ltr or 5.56 ltr per 100 km

          it gets better mileage around town

      • +5

        Yep, Hamster is thinking the same as me.

        I had an Aqua and averaged ~26km/L (sometimes as high as 32).

        That's 10c/KM at $2.60/L.

        My wife's Smart Fortwo gets 6.3km/kWh and electricity is ~27c. Or 4.3c/km.

        RUCs are 7.2c/KM, so her Smart Fortwo costs 11.5c/km.

        Someone complained about an Aqua being an unfair comparison (totally fair against the Smart Fortwo, it's bigger and comfier, and I'd never take her EV out of Auckland), so lets go for a bigger example.

        A 2.5L 2018 Toyota Crown, which is larger, cheaper and higher featured than a Mach-E (and can drive cross country) gets 20km/L or 13c/km at $2.60.

        A Mach-e gets ~5.6km/kWh or 4.82c/km
        https://evdb.nz/v/ford-mustang-mach-e

        +7.2c/km = 12c/km.

        So the Mach-E just edges out a Crown, but only just and I could drive to Palmy non-stop in a Crown (which I did a few weeks ago).

        Smaller engined Priuses and matching Lexus all win against the Mach-E, though, break even is ~2L Toyota Hybrid.

        Also fuel prices seem to be dropping, but electricity prices never will.

        • +2

          If they had scaled RUCs to weight, I would still being considering EVs, but they no longer have a running cost advantage, but major disadvantages against a full hybrid.

          I would also (almost) never buy a petrol only car (exception is a kei van which is purchased for its utility relative to size and price and the fact they don't make full hybrid keis yet).

        • +1

          For me, EV is still slightly cheaper vs Aqua as I am able to charge for free so my cost would just be 7.6c/km but you're right, the savings of going full EV is almost gone with the introduction of RUC vs normal hybrid.

          The story will change though if/when the govt implements RUC on all cars (supposedly in 2027 if they dont have a change of mind).

          • @spam: Although their RUC on all cars is meant to coincide with taking tax off fuel so its supposed to balance out. Although its probably worse for fuel efficient cars vs ford rangers based on how they want to do it.

            • @Hamster: I agree but for the EV vs hybrid argument, it sort of bring it to (almost) level field where at the moment EV is paying more due to RUC than hybrid ($0).

              Also generally the electricity is cheaper and you'd be able (hopefully still) to utilise off-peak and/or free period for charging your car.

              I might be shooting myself here but insurance is also another cost to consider as (i think) EV will be more expensive to insure

              • @spam: I guess there's one final consideration, and one I hadn't really thought about before.

                Plug-in hybrids have half the RUCs, thus if you're using them all-electric around Auckland, that would make them the cheapest car on the road.

                Their km/L varies significantly across models when running on petrol, so if you don't have enough range that you have to hit petrol, then that might go out the window (eg the Outlander PHEV petrol mode has awful fuel economy).

                So maybe a PHEV with 100km of range would be the best possible option, if that exists.

                Although driving all-electric on a heavy car on the regular with only enough battery to do 100km would slam its recharge cycles and require replacement sooner. And you'd want to check its petrol-only fuel economy (earlier mention of Auckland -> Palmy return)

      • +3

        To add another data point, we own both a Leaf and a Prius Alpha, the Prius is a bit larger but they are both similarly sized hatchbacks.

        I have a spreadsheet for this, the Leaf gets about 5 km/kWh and we pay 17.7 c/kWh including GST. So 10,000 km costs $413 in electricity (assuming charging is 85% efficient which seems typical). In RUC it's $772.40 (assuming you buy 10,000 km at a time so you only pay the $12.44 fee once). Total: $1,185

        For the Prius, we get 5 L/100 km (sometimes a bit higher, others a bit lower). Petrol price varies, but we usually pay around $2.35 / L lately, which comes out to $1,175 for 10,000 km

        So overall they are basically the same.

        One key difference is that the Leaf will pay $76 (including GST, but not including fee) in RUC per 1000 km, but the Prius will pay $44.44 (including GST on the taxes, but not GST on the fuel) in fuel taxes.

        Also the Leaf (~7k) was cheaper than the Prius (~12k)

        • +1

          Thanks for the details. That real world data is hard to find.

    • What are servicing costs like for an EV vs Hybrid?

      I've heard annual servicing for an EV is a lot cheaper than a pure ICE vehicle.

      • +3

        Dealer bought ones have made up service needs to keep the dealers working and justify their existence still.

        Teslas have nothing other than washer fluid, cabin filters and new tyres over the warranty period. After that there are some gearbox filters and oils that can be changed to extend life.

      • I do my own oil changes and servicing, so there's certainly that aspect, but cost differs between people. Like <$100 every 10,000km difference for me.

    • +1

      My typical running cost is only RUC in my EV. Free charging over weekend means I don't often need to charge at cost. For me driving an EV is just so much nicer than ICE. So even if it did cost more, i'd still stick with EV. RUC is all about sharing the cost of road wear. So a Smart car and a 3.5 ton diesel don't really differ much in that respect. It's always been that way, economical diesel smaller cars get hit the most by mileage.

      • For me driving an EV is just so much nicer than ICE

        This is it for me too. Its not just about the cost to run. There is nothing that we have run into since moving to an EV about a year ago that diminishes the value from that initial purchase. Even the depreciation. Long runs up/down the country (charging is so effortless, quick and just part of a normal stop anyhow), space for moving stuff, and even towing (which surprised me as I never thought about it) was amazing pulling trailer loads of gravel was effortless.
        Our EV is worlds apart from the ICE car driving experience; handling, responsiveness, performance/power, noise, technology, etc. Sure it doesn't have the growl that ICE has - yes my wife and I are (were??) "petrol heads" and still stop to pause and enjoy the sound of a rotary rolling past or relish in the off throttle crackle from some high end vehicles - but tbh 99% of the time we don't miss it and the overall experience is just miles ahead in the EV.

        I too am not caught up in the whole RUC stuff - yeah sure there might be ways to make it more fair/balanced, but its only part of the experience and its all about contributing to the roading network…its certainly better (from a road users perspective) to have everyone contributing rather than (as much as it was great while it lasted) the free ride that EV's had initially.

        Seeing the 65k price point for the GT made me think twice about whether we could have 2 EV's in the house - but that just seems downright excessive, and I don't think the bank manager would be too happy with me - but damn that is a lot of car for that money!

  • Didn't know Stuff was getting into selling cars.

    • It does feel like an ad, but could also be newsworthy to show the EV value has dropped due to the new RUC policy.

    • +1

      I put stuff as the link as the ford website has RRP's on it.

  • anyone know if NZ Mach-E have heated windscreen? such a neat feature but seems to be unavailable in US but does come on EU trim

    • My Toyota Avensis (was top spec EU trim) 2005 Wagon that I owned quite a number of years ago had this feature. I'd never seen it nor heard of it before.

    • Surprisingly tesla has heated wipers. Didn't know if something like that even existed.

      • Yea, they realised the more in common parts all models have, they save on part differentials (having non heated and heated parts), logistics etc.

  • +1

    There aren’t many listings on trademe though. I can also confirm one of my mates bought recently AWD for just under $60k. Was 0kms but it was called demo as dealer ordered it as a demo for themselves. I guess each dealer can order some set amount of cars as demo each year.

  • +2

    I paid 75k on this 1y ago :rip:

    • My condolences :(

    • RIP, tell us how it rides at least? :D

    • yes and how many fish it can carry

  • Remember there are three companies providing you free hours of power, every day. If you use these free hours of power, you get free charging (except for road trips).

    • +1

      At the max standard plug wattage of 10A (which would likely melt you plug!) the most power you can possibly draw is is 2.2kwh. Saving you somewhere in the region of .50c an hour you can draw.

      And at 8 amps (which is more realistic, and may still be too much if you don't have a dedicated circuit) it's down to 1.7kwh.

      Don't just chose a plan based on a few free hours, or night rates etc. Do the math. I pay less on a fixed rate and charge my car whenever I like than I ever did with "free" hours.

      • +1

        Sorry, sorry!
        I meant if you get a 7.4kW fast charger in your house.
        You can buy Tesla chargers for $800. $200-$400 sparky install fee.
        Tesla chargers work on all Type 2 EV’s.
        <1-2 years payback for the charger and install, then it’s free charging after that.

      • +1

        House wiring (2.5mm) for a plug socket and breaker is usually rated around 16A, so often you could swap it out for a 15A socket for $10 and use a 15A charger.

        However that does require a modicum of understanding to be sure, but if you're owner/occupied you're allowed to swap sockets and stuff in your house without an electrician:
        https://www.worksafe.govt.nz/dmsdocument/1580-new-zealand-el…

        My wife and I, when we lived alone, was on the Contact Good Nights plan for 3 hours free power 9pm-12.

        At 9pm exactly the dishwasher, washing machine, dryer and EV switched on, and our monthly power bill was around $115 consuming around 600kWh per month, we didn't consume much during the day without those.

        EV took around 5 hours to charge on an 8A charger, but the bulk was done in that time.

        Now we live in a house with gas, and the cooktop and continuous hot water is around $115 on its own after the daily charge. Planning to get rid of it and get an external heat pump hot water unit, and induction which should halve our bill of ~$300/month (then maybe solar).

        • Same with mine. With Contact Good Night plan and at 9pm exactly, dishswasher, washing maching, dryer, EV, HWC turns on. Bill is around $120 at around 600kWh as well and around 50% min is used during the free period

          • @spam: Could you tell me more about how the HWC works? I can't get my head around how the HWC only runs during the free 3 hour period and is still enough to keep the house running for the remainder of the day through night.

            Do you have a specialised/large HWC or have minimal usage?

            • @Jesse: I'll double check when I'm home but pretty sure I have the 180L capacity.
              normally i turn off when i wake up around 7am, and throughout the day only 1 adult at home (WFH). Then the rest (1 adult + 2kids) shower around 8pm.

              HWC gets turned on at 9pm again.

              Seemed fine to me with my usage but perhaps won't be enough when my kids become teenager.

              I do set the HWC temp to be the highest though

            • @Jesse: We have a mechanical timer on the switchboard for the HWC. It is set to turn on from 9pm to 1am. Most days it switches off sometime between 12-1am. Ours is a 300L cylinder with dual elements. If we have particularly heavy use, then the second element (not on the timer) kicks in and heats the water up

        • Note that ~2013, when early JDM leaf's were arriving in NZ, for a while the 15A plug / socket was the defecto standard. (JDM leaf power brick draws ~14A). Sadly (while rated for 15A continuous), it was found to deal poorly with this in the real world. After a bunch of melted / scorched plug socket combinations, the NZ EV community moved to the 16A Blue caravan plug, which preforms much better.

          But for somebody buying a new bigger battery EV (Mach E is 72 kWh usable for the RWD, and 91 kWh usable for the AWD & GT), I would recommend getting a wall charger installed. Charges much faster (which is more efficient), and means you are on a dedicated circuit.

          That 15A / 16A charge cord is $400 - $600 https://oemaudio.co.nz/product/premium-t2-8-10-16a-charging-… + install of an appropriate plug

          Given a tesla wall connector (7.2 kW single phase or up to 22 kW three phase) is $850 (+ install of a new circuit).

          Latter will cost more, but is much better.

      • The mach-e doesn't include a domestic plug charge cord (They are available after market).

        Most buyers will have / get a wall charger installed. the Mach e can support 11 kW charging (three phase), or 7kW single phase.

        For a mach-e owner (not me) with a 32A single phase wall charger installed (~7kW, I have one of these), they could get about 21 kWh of power during a three hour free window. Enough to cover just over 100 km a day of driving.

        But yeah, you really do have to hammer the free power window in those types of plans for them to make sense. We don't do much mileage in the EV, mostly work from home, and have a water cylinder too small to just heat during the window, so we opted for a regular 24/7 power plan.

  • Should note, that for some reason, Ford has not rated this for towing in NZ (in the UK it gets a 1500kg braked rating).

    Although NZ law's don't strictly require compliance with manufacture tow ratings, this could be a deal breaker for some.

    • +1

      True, though Northshore Ford have previously told me that that they could fit a towbar for a bike rack, about $1500.

  • +2

    For those asking about the RWD 78 kWh LFP version, the below is a LFP car (note the different wheels), advertised at $45k incl ORC.

    https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/ford/mustang/listing…

    • fml

      • +1

        At least the wheels on your car look better.

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